I'm going to be moving all of my content to Hyperkingdom.com but, have no fear (I know you are waiting with baited breath for the next post), I will continue to write about all of my motorcycling (and other) adventures. In fact... I have a post about an Emgo Viper fairing that you'll probably find interesting.
See you there!
Saturday, October 20, 2012
The importance of T-CLOCS
So last night I checked the oil, the tires, gave everything a bit of a once over and headed out to have dinner with my girlfriend. We had a nice but quick meal, I gave her a kiss and she went back to work and I headed home...
I fired up the bike, turned on the light... turned on the light... ummm... turned on the... crap. The headlamp, which was slowly going anyway (I had already lost the regular light so I had been running on the brights), but now it was completely out and it was nighttime. I crapped my pants and then started carefully home.
Most of the ride was easy and fairly safe. I stayed close to lit cars, kept away from side streets and signaled if I thought someone might not see me. Curse me for having a black jacket and helmet!
So this brings me to the importance of doing your pre-ride checks and following T-CLOCS as a reminder as to what to check. If you went to the safety course you would've covered T-CLOCS but just as a reminder it stands for:
MSF (motorcycle safety foundation) published a good pdf here. I suggest that we, as responsible motorcyclists follow the checklist so you don't find yourself crapping yourself in the dark of an underground parking lot. I was lucky this time... I may not be so lucky the next time.
Today, I ran out, bought an H4 headlamp (I pulled the original last night, breaking it in the process) and plugged it in, fixing my issue. To be sure, I used the multi-meter last night after pulling the bulb just to make sure that it wasn't an electrical issue. I suggest buying a multi-meter, mine is a cheapie from harbor freight but it does what it needs to - it shows me that 12 volts of power are running through the wires. If you haven't used a multimeter before, this article is pretty good.
Safe riding everyone...
I fired up the bike, turned on the light... turned on the light... ummm... turned on the... crap. The headlamp, which was slowly going anyway (I had already lost the regular light so I had been running on the brights), but now it was completely out and it was nighttime. I crapped my pants and then started carefully home.
Most of the ride was easy and fairly safe. I stayed close to lit cars, kept away from side streets and signaled if I thought someone might not see me. Curse me for having a black jacket and helmet!
So this brings me to the importance of doing your pre-ride checks and following T-CLOCS as a reminder as to what to check. If you went to the safety course you would've covered T-CLOCS but just as a reminder it stands for:
- T - Tire and wheels
- C - Controls
- L - Lights
- O - Oil
- C - Chassis
- S - Stands
MSF (motorcycle safety foundation) published a good pdf here. I suggest that we, as responsible motorcyclists follow the checklist so you don't find yourself crapping yourself in the dark of an underground parking lot. I was lucky this time... I may not be so lucky the next time.
Today, I ran out, bought an H4 headlamp (I pulled the original last night, breaking it in the process) and plugged it in, fixing my issue. To be sure, I used the multi-meter last night after pulling the bulb just to make sure that it wasn't an electrical issue. I suggest buying a multi-meter, mine is a cheapie from harbor freight but it does what it needs to - it shows me that 12 volts of power are running through the wires. If you haven't used a multimeter before, this article is pretty good.
Safe riding everyone...
Friday, October 5, 2012
Cool short film
Long Live the Kings
This was a pretty cool film with some great old BMWs... makes me want to just head down a road with a pack and no idea where I'm going...
This was a pretty cool film with some great old BMWs... makes me want to just head down a road with a pack and no idea where I'm going...
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Seats, seats and more seats...
So, if you look back a couple of posts you'll notice that I have this gigantic grey seat that is great for touring but isn't very "cool". I want to keep it intact for long rides but want something a bit more sporty for commuting and around town so now I was looking at having two seats. Having two seats is expensive...
Here's why:
1. I could make a new seat pan... great idea, lots of diy seat pan how-to's but not a lot of how to mount the seat... this means I'm looking at buying the hinges and post which starts at $45 (not too bad). Then I'd need to go cut foam, sew leather and so on...
2. I could buy a used seat... I really like this idea, but it will be at least $160...
3. I could buy a new seat, like one of those fancy corbin ones... but this would be upwards of $300...
4. Buy a new seat pan (fiberglass), runs around $130... still requires me to paint, foam and leather it...
So it looks like I'm going to do some saving. I like the idea of rolling my own, that sounds like a fun project but mounting seems challenging and worries me slightly. I still might head this direction though particularly since I found this: Converting a /5 seat from hinged to lift off. This looks promising as I would still need a post, but no longer need hinges (maybe a bit of a break?).
Anyway... I'm good with what I have so far, but this is on the near horizon.
Here's why:
1. I could make a new seat pan... great idea, lots of diy seat pan how-to's but not a lot of how to mount the seat... this means I'm looking at buying the hinges and post which starts at $45 (not too bad). Then I'd need to go cut foam, sew leather and so on...
2. I could buy a used seat... I really like this idea, but it will be at least $160...
3. I could buy a new seat, like one of those fancy corbin ones... but this would be upwards of $300...
4. Buy a new seat pan (fiberglass), runs around $130... still requires me to paint, foam and leather it...
So it looks like I'm going to do some saving. I like the idea of rolling my own, that sounds like a fun project but mounting seems challenging and worries me slightly. I still might head this direction though particularly since I found this: Converting a /5 seat from hinged to lift off. This looks promising as I would still need a post, but no longer need hinges (maybe a bit of a break?).
Anyway... I'm good with what I have so far, but this is on the near horizon.
Monday, September 10, 2012
Catching up...
So I wanted to catch up on some other stuff...
Took an amazing mid-summer trip from So Cal to Vegas and back (600 miles over two days). On the way there, I started at 6AM and made it to Vegas at noon. The temp went from 78 to over 100 on the ride, but temp never became too much of an issue. The venting on my pants and jacket were sufficient, my Camelbak kept me hydrated and when the temp was over 100, I found that wetting my shirt was not only sexy but great at regulating my core temp.
The ride back from Vegas started at 11:30 so we were going into the hottest parts of the day. The approach I took on the ride out (wetting the shirt, stops to hydrate) applied on the way back too. I made sure that stops included some sort of electrolyte replenishing fluids and stops in the shade. I didn't use a cooling vest, though I thought about buying one - I found it was good enough to wet the shirt, drink a lot and stop when you were dry - it might be different with humidity though.
On the ride, I learned a couple of important things:
First, if you are buying your first jacket in Southern California, I want to suggest you get a jacket that has either a zipper or Velcro on the cuff of the sleeves. I found that my Bilt jacket, as good as the venting it has on the upper sleeves, front, sides and back, would've been better if I could've opened the cuffs. When I rode through the Mojave desert, I found that I was dripping sweat from my sleeves on each stop; I thought, perhaps, that if I had openings on the cuffs, the airflow would've been better and I would've had a little less perspiration ;).
My pants, on the other hand, were great, at stops, unzipping the bottom allowed enough air in to keep my legs cool (and I kept a little spot by my knees unzipped during the ride for some venting too).
Next, getting air in the jacket on the ride was sometimes a challenge. I found it necessary, due to my windshield, to do this strange arm flapping thing, where I sat up straight and brought my elbows out like flying. This action allowed air to pour in the front of the jacket and in through the vents on the sleeves.
Third, if you are using a Camelbak (and I love mine - I had a heat injury in the Army years ago and since the adoption of a Camelbak, haven't had another one since - knock on wood), you are going to want to invest in or create a cover for the hose. Riding through the desert, I found that I was drinking warm tea within five minutes of riding with no cover on the drink tube. During a stop, I took a bandanna and wrapped and zip tied it to the tube. At each stop, I would soak the bandanna and found that the air cooled wet bandanna kept the water in the tube cool. The other thing about the Camelbak is that it fit in my helmet uncomfortably... the bite valve was off to the side and didn't fit right in front of my mouth. It would be interesting to see how this is with other helmets (I don't have an issue with it on my dirt helmet). Funny thing, I accidently spit water in my helmet - this resulted in cool relief for my dry face in the desert but water spots on my glasses and face shield - I did this two more times just because I found it so comfortable.
Finally, my helmet, while having decent venting, I found was just a little more comfortable if I popped the face shield up by a click. I also found that, though my glasses (Fox "The Meeting") don't have any foam around them, the wrap around lenses keep much of the air and dust out of my eyes.
I don't know if anyone would find this helpful, but I figured that I'd share.
Took an amazing mid-summer trip from So Cal to Vegas and back (600 miles over two days). On the way there, I started at 6AM and made it to Vegas at noon. The temp went from 78 to over 100 on the ride, but temp never became too much of an issue. The venting on my pants and jacket were sufficient, my Camelbak kept me hydrated and when the temp was over 100, I found that wetting my shirt was not only sexy but great at regulating my core temp.
The ride back from Vegas started at 11:30 so we were going into the hottest parts of the day. The approach I took on the ride out (wetting the shirt, stops to hydrate) applied on the way back too. I made sure that stops included some sort of electrolyte replenishing fluids and stops in the shade. I didn't use a cooling vest, though I thought about buying one - I found it was good enough to wet the shirt, drink a lot and stop when you were dry - it might be different with humidity though.
On the ride, I learned a couple of important things:
First, if you are buying your first jacket in Southern California, I want to suggest you get a jacket that has either a zipper or Velcro on the cuff of the sleeves. I found that my Bilt jacket, as good as the venting it has on the upper sleeves, front, sides and back, would've been better if I could've opened the cuffs. When I rode through the Mojave desert, I found that I was dripping sweat from my sleeves on each stop; I thought, perhaps, that if I had openings on the cuffs, the airflow would've been better and I would've had a little less perspiration ;).
My pants, on the other hand, were great, at stops, unzipping the bottom allowed enough air in to keep my legs cool (and I kept a little spot by my knees unzipped during the ride for some venting too).
Next, getting air in the jacket on the ride was sometimes a challenge. I found it necessary, due to my windshield, to do this strange arm flapping thing, where I sat up straight and brought my elbows out like flying. This action allowed air to pour in the front of the jacket and in through the vents on the sleeves.
Third, if you are using a Camelbak (and I love mine - I had a heat injury in the Army years ago and since the adoption of a Camelbak, haven't had another one since - knock on wood), you are going to want to invest in or create a cover for the hose. Riding through the desert, I found that I was drinking warm tea within five minutes of riding with no cover on the drink tube. During a stop, I took a bandanna and wrapped and zip tied it to the tube. At each stop, I would soak the bandanna and found that the air cooled wet bandanna kept the water in the tube cool. The other thing about the Camelbak is that it fit in my helmet uncomfortably... the bite valve was off to the side and didn't fit right in front of my mouth. It would be interesting to see how this is with other helmets (I don't have an issue with it on my dirt helmet). Funny thing, I accidently spit water in my helmet - this resulted in cool relief for my dry face in the desert but water spots on my glasses and face shield - I did this two more times just because I found it so comfortable.
Finally, my helmet, while having decent venting, I found was just a little more comfortable if I popped the face shield up by a click. I also found that, though my glasses (Fox "The Meeting") don't have any foam around them, the wrap around lenses keep much of the air and dust out of my eyes.
I don't know if anyone would find this helpful, but I figured that I'd share.
Thursday, September 6, 2012
Shaft Seal
Changed out the shaft seal... it was a bit nerve racking but not hard work at all.
Bought the seal from Irv Seaver for a whopping $7 (their parts prices are competitive with the prices online).
With a friend's help, we put the bike at a 45 degree angle (leaning the engine case on an ATV dirt tire and rim), unscrewed the shift lever and pulled it from the engine case. The next step was to pull the old seal from the bike, this was slightly more challenging as it requires some finesse and a dull screwdriver to carefully pull the very tight seal from the tranny cover (Note: pay attention to the way the seal is seated and facing so you can put it back the same way). The third step was to take the new seal, give it a light coat of oil and begin to seat it into the cover again - this part sucks. You have to be very careful, even though the seal is pretty solid, you have to make sure you push it in slowly and evenly. You'll probably find, as I did, that the seal doesn't want to go in... I found that by using a rubber mallet and a long socket that was almost as wide as the seal was good to work the seal in... I was worried at first but as long as I worked around the edges I was good.
The challenge is knowing how deep the seal goes before it seats. If you stick your finger in there, there is a bearing (I think) that moves back and forth a bit. If you paid attention to this part before you took out the original seal you'll be able to know the placement of the seal (how deep it goes) when you seat the new one. I didn't do this step and had to guess. My Haynes manual was useless for this work and I wonder of the Clymer manual is better (I'll have to get one). After about 5 minutes of light tapping and pushing, the seal was seated correctly and I put everything back together.
Good times!! It was fun drinking a beer and turning wrenches and is always fun hanging out with a friend.
Bought the seal from Irv Seaver for a whopping $7 (their parts prices are competitive with the prices online).
With a friend's help, we put the bike at a 45 degree angle (leaning the engine case on an ATV dirt tire and rim), unscrewed the shift lever and pulled it from the engine case. The next step was to pull the old seal from the bike, this was slightly more challenging as it requires some finesse and a dull screwdriver to carefully pull the very tight seal from the tranny cover (Note: pay attention to the way the seal is seated and facing so you can put it back the same way). The third step was to take the new seal, give it a light coat of oil and begin to seat it into the cover again - this part sucks. You have to be very careful, even though the seal is pretty solid, you have to make sure you push it in slowly and evenly. You'll probably find, as I did, that the seal doesn't want to go in... I found that by using a rubber mallet and a long socket that was almost as wide as the seal was good to work the seal in... I was worried at first but as long as I worked around the edges I was good.
The challenge is knowing how deep the seal goes before it seats. If you stick your finger in there, there is a bearing (I think) that moves back and forth a bit. If you paid attention to this part before you took out the original seal you'll be able to know the placement of the seal (how deep it goes) when you seat the new one. I didn't do this step and had to guess. My Haynes manual was useless for this work and I wonder of the Clymer manual is better (I'll have to get one). After about 5 minutes of light tapping and pushing, the seal was seated correctly and I put everything back together.
Good times!! It was fun drinking a beer and turning wrenches and is always fun hanging out with a friend.
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Piece of mind
Took the bike in for a once over today at Irv Seaver... seemed to be a good bunch of cats. Also had them adjust the idle real quick and make sure the valves were adjusted correctly. Picked up a seal and two crush washers for good measure.
I guess I'm ready for the road?
I guess I'm ready for the road?
Monday, August 27, 2012
Clutch Switch...
Ahh... one more woe today... the clutch switch (along with the headlights) is now on the fritz. The bike will no ONLY start in neutral. Not a biggie except that the carbs are still idling a little low so I'm prone to stalling at the light and if I'm not in neutral already, I'm walking it over to the curb to start it. :)
Here's a solution.
8/28
One more update... the switch costs $26 from bike bandit... however, on a suspicion, I went out to the garage and looked at the bike... I pushed what I assumed was the switch back towards the clutch lever and fired up the bike in gear. I think, when zip tying the acc plug, I didn't leave enough room for the bars to turn and it pulled the switch loose. I do think the little plastic harness for the switch is broken, but I can probably make it work for now... *sigh*
Here's a solution.
8/28
One more update... the switch costs $26 from bike bandit... however, on a suspicion, I went out to the garage and looked at the bike... I pushed what I assumed was the switch back towards the clutch lever and fired up the bike in gear. I think, when zip tying the acc plug, I didn't leave enough room for the bars to turn and it pulled the switch loose. I do think the little plastic harness for the switch is broken, but I can probably make it work for now... *sigh*
Leaky, leaky, leaky...
So, I dwelled on the leaky shift lever and started stressing out. Went and picked up some Valvoline 80W90 GL-5 Hypoid Gear Oil from Pepboys (so I wouldn't run out of oil). Came home and attempted to remove the transmission oil plug but it was stuck. I had the standard equivalent of the 8mm allen wrench and couldn't find the metric one so I ran out to sears.
Had dinner with the lady, talked to my friend who I'm rapidly running out of time to meet and picked up my allen wrenches. I do admit that I'm a sucker for shiny tools at Sears.
Came back and took on my task. The plug appeared to be a bit stuck... I used a pair of pliers on the end of the allen wrench (which would only fit in on the long side, not the short side) and "Pop", it came loose. Well, there was plenty of oil, it came out, spilled on the floor and I screwed the plug back into place. Once in, I looked at it again, and saw a silver ring around its edge and wondered if something wasn't missing. I gave the Haynes manual a quick look at found:
"If the washer is worn or damaged, replace it."
Crap... I looked around and found nothing... I don't know if it flew off into oblivion or was merely never there... needless to say, I have one more thing on my list to replace now. *sigh*
Am I going to make it?
Had dinner with the lady, talked to my friend who I'm rapidly running out of time to meet and picked up my allen wrenches. I do admit that I'm a sucker for shiny tools at Sears.
Came back and took on my task. The plug appeared to be a bit stuck... I used a pair of pliers on the end of the allen wrench (which would only fit in on the long side, not the short side) and "Pop", it came loose. Well, there was plenty of oil, it came out, spilled on the floor and I screwed the plug back into place. Once in, I looked at it again, and saw a silver ring around its edge and wondered if something wasn't missing. I gave the Haynes manual a quick look at found:
"If the washer is worn or damaged, replace it."
Crap... I looked around and found nothing... I don't know if it flew off into oblivion or was merely never there... needless to say, I have one more thing on my list to replace now. *sigh*
Am I going to make it?
Sunday, August 26, 2012
Safety stuff..
Been really focused on safety stuff... based on this article I've searched for the right protective gear.
I wound up with a Bilt jacket, Speed and Strength pants, a Bilt helmet and Bilt gloves. I still need a pair of boots but that'll have to wait. The pants don't have hip protection which doesn't make me too happy but it is pretty thick. The Pants and jacket are multi-season and have rainproof zip out liners (but I really don't want to test it).
I wore some Dickies shorts under the pants today, but the pants and jacket in 86 degree weather resulted in a bit of sweating even driving at 70mph. Oh well, sweating is worth the safety... :)
I wound up with a Bilt jacket, Speed and Strength pants, a Bilt helmet and Bilt gloves. I still need a pair of boots but that'll have to wait. The pants don't have hip protection which doesn't make me too happy but it is pretty thick. The Pants and jacket are multi-season and have rainproof zip out liners (but I really don't want to test it).
I wore some Dickies shorts under the pants today, but the pants and jacket in 86 degree weather resulted in a bit of sweating even driving at 70mph. Oh well, sweating is worth the safety... :)
Fuel lines
Next time I buy a bike, I'm going to ask how long it has been sitting... remind me to get back to this...
So, getting ready to take a trip, bought the bike knowing full well that the fuel lines (which looked pretty old) needed replacing. I did a bunch of research and between Snowbum's site and a number of other places (like ADV Rider I found the approach I was going to take.
First I went to Champion Motorcycles and picked up some fuel line. I could've gone one of three ways:
Update on the fuel lines: Rode 300 miles to Vegas in back in 100+ heat and the fuel lines were great. No "bubbling" fuel in the fuel filter and no other problems. These lines are great and I'll use them again.
So, getting ready to take a trip, bought the bike knowing full well that the fuel lines (which looked pretty old) needed replacing. I did a bunch of research and between Snowbum's site and a number of other places (like ADV Rider I found the approach I was going to take.
First I went to Champion Motorcycles and picked up some fuel line. I could've gone one of three ways:
- Tygon line
- BMW cloth braided
- Steel braided
After my research, I decided on Tygon. I bought 3 feet of 1/4" Motion Pro Premium line in black from Champion (I wanted clear or yellow because it looked cooler but this was all they had. I then went to O'Reilly's and bought two Wix 33011 inline fuel filters. BTW, Champion wanted less than some of the places online (3' for $16)...
Now, I was freaked out... these Wix filters are 4 inches long... but 1 of those inches is part of the tube that feeds into the filter. After poking around a bit, someone said they cut the little part out and made the other hole just a little bigger. I don't know if making the other hole bigger is necessary, but I agreed with the trimming of the other bit and made it happen.
The wix filter, trimmed...
The filter was not 3 inches long and fit well up and down between the fuel tap (or petcock) and the t-piece that connects the two carbs.
Next, well... I was doing two things at once... so I decided to pull off the fuel tank. This is pretty easy, it just takes opening the seat, undoing two hand tightened nuts at the back of the tank, undoing the fuel lines from the fuel taps, lifting if off and placing it gently down someplace else. It really was that easy... I was surprised!
Here it is off
And here it is balanced precariously on the wheel of a quad
Now I started on my second job (putting in a 12 volt adapter on the handle bars). I bought an adapter from Cycle Gear for $10. It didn't appear to be fused, but this was okay because the wire was too short anyway. I dug through my stuff and pulled out a fuse, wire, heat shrink tubing, some zip ties and so on and when through the painful process of running the adapter along the top of the frame to the battery. In the end, I didn't even finish and just stuffed everything into the top tube of the bike to revisit later.
The new adapter blends in well...
Here is my crappy wiring job... not tucked away at this point.
So back to the fuel line... Pulling the line off of the taps was easy, the other places, not so much. I didn't have enough room to get some twisting, pulling, pushing in so I decided to pull off the air hose from the air box to the carb to get more space.
Here is my secret, learned the hard way, to pull off the air hose... loosen the clamps and then work the little rubber part off of the airbox... this will become super easy at this point, otherwise you'll be pulling, sweating and cussing. To put it back on, just do the opposite. The carb side is easy, just loosen the clamp.
With that out of the way, it was easy to pull everything else apart. My hoses were pretty old so they came off with fairly little effort.
To measure the hoses there was a bunch of lying stuff down on a piece of wood, holding things next to each other and getting relative sizes. I thought about taking pictures of it, but I didn't. With the fuel filter, it was a little holding things up, comparing, marking and then cutting. Eventually I came out with the same length hoses. All the hoses needed doing, even the one that goes through the airbox, so I pulled this one out too and replaced it. To replace that connecting hose, I used a tip from someone else and uses a metal coat hanger to use as a guide. I fed the hanger through the box and then the fuel line onto the hanger... really, really easy...
Now I just hooked everything back up... pretty easy... hoses slipped on w/o much effort and didn't require clips, clamps or ties. The R80 uses gravity and has low pressure so everything was good to go (I do have some zip ties under my seat just in case).
So, two more things... 1. I just put the filter on one side... this is mainly because I'm only running one open, not both and 2. I don't trust my work yet... So I'm going to chuck my extra filter in my bag and push on. If I feel comfortable with what I did, I will put the other filter on the other side.
So everything was good, I put everything back together and put the tank on. The first time I slid the tank on I didn't slide it on correctly up front (see picture below). I knew immediately because it was loose. I pulled it back, readjusted and everything fit perfect.
So, I tightened it up, took one last look and turned the tap to AUF. The fuel filter slowly started filling with gas and everything looked great - that is until I saw the puddle splashing down on the other side of the bike. Remember, when you put the tank back on, attach both hoses to it...
I let the gas dry up a bit while I did other things and then came back, started it up and looked for more leaks - nothing. I went inside, put my gear on and took it around the block a couple of times, appeared to be a solid job (patting myself on the back).
Now back to my first statements... since buy thing bike I found a couple of things.
- On Friday, Peter found the drive shaft gaiter was cracked
- Today I found an oil leak at the gear change lever
- Today I also found a little old looking leak from the head of the steering column
- Also today, my light switch is toast, no longer sitting in the on position, it slides off. High-beams work so I can just drive during the day and not be out at night for the time being.
Well... that was today's adventure.. (along with cutting straps to double the security of the side bags and slapping some stickers on the back case).
I took Brigitte on the 405, 55, 5, 57 and 91 freeways today also... wheeee!
Thursday, August 23, 2012
What is in a name?
I'm considering the name... here's what I got:
- I could go with a "b" name for BMW. In this case I was going for Brigitte
- I could go with German and 1983. In this case I was going to go for Nena
- My first reaction was to go for German and called her "Heidi" (for Heidi Klum)
It is still up in the air... I'll ride her a bit more and make my decision.. :)
First Entry...
First Post!!! Holy crap, finally got the bike (after months of looking). Had a huge challenge of identifying exactly what I wanted, what was available and what was in budget. Found a 1983 BMW R80RT on craigslist.
The bike isn't the prettiest thing in the world but had a number of things going for it.
The bike isn't the prettiest thing in the world but had a number of things going for it.
- 60k miles put it into the young category for airheads
- Had only two owners, the most recent since 1985
- Was always maintained at the same place - Irv Seaver BMW in Anaheim
- Was set for touring - which is good because I wanted to haul it up and down the coast of CA
- Is a great classic bike with a huge following
I had a frightening first trip on it, it is a bigger bike than I had ridden before (800cc), I hadn't ridden in CA traffic at rush hour before and I had about 7 miles to go... One additional thing... the idle was off and it kept stalling. Eventually I figured out how to work the throttle so it wouldn't stall, but that requires some immediate resolution.
Since that day...
- Insured it
- Registered it
- Switched to the left petcock rather than the right (running better)
- Bought some fuel line to replace the fuel line that is aging on the bike today
- Rode it to work
What I'm doing next...
- Getting some inline fuel filters
- Draining and cleaning the tank
- Cleaning the petcocks
- Switching the fuel lines
- Getting a mechanic to give it a quick once over
Wheeee!!! So exciting!
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